How to Clean a Washing Machine Drain Pump Filter Safely

Unplug the washer, then put a shallow baking pan and a stack of old towels on the floor in front of it. Most no-drain problems come down to a clogged washer drain pump, and the filter that protects it is a short job once the water is out of the tub. Getting that water out without flooding the laundry room is the part most instructions skip, so it gets real attention below.

How do I know it's a clog and not a dead pump?

Listen during a drain or spin cycle: a pump that hums but moves little or no water points to a clog or jammed impeller, while a silent pump points to a failed pump or an electrical fault.

Run a drain-and-spin cycle and listen near the lower front of the machine, then match what you hear to the table.

Many machines also display a drain error code. Examples include OE on many LG models, 5E or 5C on many Samsung models, and F21 on some Whirlpool front-loaders. Codes vary by brand and year, so confirm against your manual.

Spend two minutes behind the machine before you open anything. Look for a kinked drain hose, and check that the hose isn't pushed more than a few inches into the standpipe, which can cause siphoning and slow drainage. If a sink or tub nearby is also draining slowly, the household drain line is the likelier suspect.

What tools and materials do I need?

You need very little: towels, a shallow container, a flashlight, and something to grip small objects.

• Shallow baking pan or low tray (a bucket won't fit under most filter openings)
• Several old towels
• Bucket for emptying the pan
• Flashlight or headlamp
• Needle-nose pliers or tweezers
• Flat-blade screwdriver or plastic pry tool for the access panel
• Rubber gloves
• Wet/dry vacuum (optional, but it speeds up emptying a top-load tub)
• Old toothbrush and mild dish soap for cleaning the filter

How do I drain a full washer when the pump won't run?

Use the emergency drain hose if your washer has one, and if it doesn't, loosen the filter a quarter turn at a time over a pan and empty the pan between pours.

A full top-load tub holds many gallons, so plan on repeated trips with the bucket. On a front-load washer the water usually sits low in the drum, but it can still amount to a few gallons. If the last cycle was hot, give the water time to cool before you touch it. Work in this order.

1. Unplug the machine and give the door lock a few minutes to release. Front-loaders lock the door when there's water inside. Many have a small manual release cord or tab behind the filter panel. Don't force the door.
2. Look for the emergency drain hose behind the same lower panel as the filter. Pull it out, uncap it, and let it run into the shallow baking pan. Pinch it or raise the end to stop the flow while you empty the pan.
3. If there's no emergency hose, lay towels down and turn the filter cap counterclockwise a quarter turn. Water will dribble out. Let the pan fill, retighten, empty, and repeat until the flow stops.
4. For a top-load tub, bail with a cup or pitcher into a bucket, then finish with a wet/dry vacuum and a sponge.

Where is the drain pump filter on my washer?

On most front-load washers, the drain pump filter sits behind a small panel at the lower front corner, usually on the right but sometimes on the left or behind a longer kick plate.

The panel pops off with a fingertip or a flat screwdriver. Inside you'll see a round cap, often with a ribbed grip, and sometimes the emergency drain hose beside it.

Top-load washers are less consistent. Many have no filter you're meant to service. The pump sits behind a front or rear panel or under the cabinet, and reaching it can mean tipping the machine or removing screws. Some top-loaders have a mesh lint filter in the agitator or clipped to the tub wall, but that's a lint trap, not a pump filter. A few models do have a pump filter, so look up your exact model number. It's usually on a sticker inside the lid or door frame, or on the back edge of the cabinet. If your manual shows no access point, check the hoses (covered below) or call a pro rather than pulling the cabinet apart.

How do I remove, clean, and reinstall the filter?

Turn the filter cap counterclockwise to remove it, rinse off the debris, and screw it back in clockwise until it's hand tight and seated against its gasket.

1. Position the pan and towels under the opening, even if you've drained the tub. A cup or more of water is usually left in the pump housing.
2. Unscrew the cap slowly and let the remaining water run out before pulling it free.
3. Pull out what's inside. Expect lint, hair, coins, hair ties, and the odd sock. Use needle-nose pliers for anything wedged in.
4. Clean the filter under running water with an old toothbrush and a drop of dish soap. Slime or a sour smell here is normal and means it was overdue.
5. Wipe the housing and gasket. Check the rubber seal for cracks or flat spots, since a damaged one will weep during the next cycle.
6. Reinstall by hand. Start the threads slowly so they don't cross, then tighten until snug. Skip the wrench; over-tightening can crack the plastic.

The most common mistake is rushing the water. Open the cap fast and you get a surge across the floor, so go a quarter turn at a time. The second is leaving the cap slightly cocked. It looks fine until the machine fills, and then it leaks.

How do I check the pump impeller and hoses for blockages?

With the filter out, shine a flashlight into the housing and spin the impeller blades with one finger; they should turn freely, though some pumps have a slight magnetic drag.

The impeller is the small fan-like wheel at the back of the opening. If it won't turn or feels gritty, something is lodged around it. Common culprits are underwire, a small sock, or a bit of rubber. Wear gloves, since underwire and broken plastic can be sharp, and pull the object out with needle-nose pliers or tweezers. A broken or visibly chewed impeller usually means the pump needs replacing.

If the filter and impeller are clear, check the hoses. Pull the washer a foot or two from the wall, go gently with the hoses attached, and disconnect the drain hose from the standpipe. Lift the end and look through it, or rinse it with a garden hose. Straighten any kinks and route the hose the way your manual shows, which on many models means a high loop near the top of the standpipe. Then check the standpipe itself. A slow household drain can make a washer look like it has a pump problem.

How do I test the cycle and know when to call a pro?

Run a drain-and-spin cycle with the machine empty and watch the filter area for about five minutes; if it drains fully with no leaks, you're done.

Plug the machine back in and keep a towel under the access panel. Follow the drain-and-spin with a small rinse cycle so water passes through the filter. Look for drips around the cap and listen for rattling.

Call a pro if any of these apply:

• The pump hums but still won't move water after the filter, impeller, and hoses are clear.
• You hear nothing at all when the machine should drain.
• Water leaks from anywhere other than the cap.
• You see melted wiring or burn marks, or smell burning.
• The error code returns after a clean filter.

A replacement pump part usually runs roughly $30 to $120, and a service visit with a new pump often lands between $150 and $400, depending on brand and region. On an older, inexpensive machine, compare that to the cost of a new unit. The Department of Energy's Energy Saver site has general laundry guidance, and ENERGY STAR lists certified washers if you decide to replace.

Next step: set a recurring reminder to check the filter, and empty your pockets before loading, since coins and hair ties are what land you back here.